Abstract

Mapping of wave trains during four flights over the ocean off southern California showed the consistent presence of a high 10-second swell from the westnorthwest, of one or two low 3- to 5-second swells from other westerly directions, and of local wind waves; occasionally a low 13-second swell from the west and southwest was also present. Islands reduce the height of swells but produce little discernable crossswell in their lee....

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