Theoretical investigations by the authors on surf due to long swell are summarized and presented here in a form unencumbered by mathematical technicalities. The conclusions derived thus far are mainly qualitative, but in some respects the r esults are quite detailed and differ radically from results of earlier investigations; some new observations are also presented....
Ho, D. V., R. E. Meyer, and M. C. Shen. 1963. "Long surf." Journal of Marine Research 21, (3). https://elischolar.library.yale.edu/journal_of_marine_research/1009